Southeast Michigan Woodworkers

From City of Ann Arbor web site:

Jamie, I would still inquire at the building department as it doesnt say SPECIFICALLY whether or not the addition has to be less than 200sqft or the garage+addition has to be less than 200sqft. If you opted for the detached shop, you should be good to go.

If you opted to go with the detached shed/shop, I would strongly suggest that you not go with any kits etc.. from the borg. I built one of the hartland kits and in hind sight... I would have stick built it and gotten 8ft walls (might have even considered 10ft for more overhead storage or a loft). This would also allow you to use standard exterior doors as well. I have the same 200sqft limit, but I dont have a height restriction. I failed to make use of that for additional storage.

I'd also look into their definition of both shed and garage (door size, power, etc.). You may be thinking shed (no need for permit) and they may be thinking garage (permit required).

If it is less than 200 sq ft and detached, it doesn't matter what you call it. No permit required for the build of the structure (would still need to pull permits for electric).

This may all be moot, because I am not sure I want to try to live with a 200 sq ft (probably 12'x16' = 192 sq ft) shop. I am definitely leaning towards detached though. I would love for it to be attached to the back of the garage, but I think there are too many headaches/expenses to do that. Maybe I will start off detached and someday, if it looks like we are going to stay there long term, I will upgrade.

As for the mention of avoiding the kits, I would definitely not build from a kit. I want high walls and storage above and 2x6 walls and lots of insulation.

Well, we closed on the house on Tuesday and started washing windows last night. We'll be spending the next 3 months on updates and moving in.

Of course the only thing I can think about is the woodshop.

I am pretty much settled on going the 200 sq. ft detached route, although I might just go the permit route and expand it a bit (12x20, maybe?). I am thinking about a saltbox kind of thing with an extended rear roof for firewood storage lean-to kind of thing.

Would a foundation like this be reasonable for this kind of a structure, or do I need to drop 48" sonotube-formed piers into the ground or something?

Finally have the mortgage survey, and as soon as I get SWMBO to agree on a location for the thing (the kids like that northeast corner of the yard too much, so she won't let me build there), I will head down to the building dept and talk it out with them. Just want to be armed with as much wisdom as possible so they don't laugh me out of the place with my inexperience.

I am sure others have more knowledge in this area, but I think you should only do that kind of foundation if you enjoy the pitch of your floors changing with the seasons.

Went to he city this morning. No permanent foundation required for a building under 200 sq ft (in their words, "you can build it on top of jelly beans if you want"). So I need to find out the feasibility of building this thing on a bed of gravel on skids.

Only requirement is that it must be 3' from any lot line or easement (we have a 6' easement along the rear lot line).

Running electrical to it as a temporary structure is fine, but does require a permit, but still only for the electrical.

I have started trying to configure a 12' x 16' shop in SketchUp. I think it is reasonable if I keep the bulk lumber storage in the garage and maybe even put the lathe there. Certainly people with more tools have gotten by with less space.

I built the foundation for my shed (10x14) in a similar fashion using 2x6 or 2x8 PT (its early and I cannot remember which) with 3/4 T&G decking. Originally, it was to store patio furn. etc... right now it is mostly my wood storage. So long as you have good drainage in the area, I dont think you will have any problems using this type of foundation. I would consider sprayfoam in the floor and using 6in walls, 10' high. If you insulate and seal the snot out of it, it won't take much to get and keep it warm in the winter.

Seems like it would be tough to keep rodents and/or kids from eating away at your foundation.

I have started mocking this thing up in Sketchup. The square footage comes out to 12'x16' = 192 sq. ft. The shed roof gives a 10' ceiling at the front and 8' at the back. My intent is to put some sort of windows across the upper 18-24" of the front wall to allow some more natural light in the winter. I would like a fairly continuous window solution there, so I am wondering how best to frame that in.

I ran the roof as far as I did in the rear because I would like to store firewood under cover and out of sight. I'll need some supports back there too.

I think I will most likely put 4x4 piers into the ground with concrete to support the floor.

I can also post the Sketchup files if anyone wants to grab them who knows more about framing than me.

Jamey, I just bought a door like that a few weeks ago for my future finishing room from a surplus place in Toledo called Big Ugly Warehouse. I think they had 2 more.

Jamey:

It is looking good! One item you might want to ask the city on is the lean-to on one side. I thought...but could certainly be wrong....that they included this in the square footage calculation in my township. I am not sure how much overhang you can have until it is considered a lean-to but might be worth asking.

Damon

Jamey, if you want to do a transom window, you'll have to frame it with a header over the top of the window, then stud framing below. Not much different than a door opening, other than the size of the header.